The Unstructured Suit

With tailoring continuing its resurgence in menswear circles, it’s becoming increasingly difficult to set your formal looks apart from the crowd. However, sometimes the smallest alteration to a classic style can help you achieve your goal. Our suggestion this season? Make the move from structured suiting to unstructured.

Due to its minimal padding and lining, the unstructured suit conveys a naturally relaxed vibe that will give your work-to-weekend ensembles a whole new outlook. Not only that, this type of style is, again, often made from lighter materials such as cotton or linen, ensuring you stay cool and comfortable as the temperatures rise.

Know why you're buying a suit

Are you hunting for a suit that you’re going to wear to the office once or more a week? (If so, keep it dark and classic.) Or are you looking for a suit you’ll wear a few times a year to weddings and funerals? (Black or navy is a safe bet.) Is it a suit you’ll wear to job interviews? (If so, you want to be well dressed but not better dressed than the guy interviewing you, so nothing too pricey.) Or is it the kind you’d wear with sneakers and a T-shirt, or wear just the jacket with a pair of jeans? 

It's Not About You, It's About Your Style

Suit styles haven’t altered course by any great degree over the past few years, sticking largely to classic and slim cuts where the mainstream is concerned. For the less conventional there’s the roomier option of pleated pants or the daring option of super-skinny. The latter, of course, comes down largely to having the physique to pull it off.

This suit  marries a skinny cut with rolled-up bared ankles and contrasting panels for an overall appearance of one both daring and yet not too far away from classic.

The Shoulder Of A Suit

A lot of suit terms can be mixed and matched, but I’m a fan of something I’ve always called the ‘British rolled-shoulder.’ Others might call it something else, but it is effectively where the shoulder padding finishes. A lot of Italian and US based designers prefer to have the shoulder padding finish precisely where the bone does. A British rolled shoulder has the padding extend over the shoulder and roll down into the sleeve. It’s a technical difference, but it’s also a visual trick that makes the shoulders seem broader and the arms better built.

Such a padded shoulder is perfect for the masculine figure a modern suit is meant to convey, hence it isn’t an element of the preceding sack suit

What is a Sack Suit?

The name gives it away. A sack suit is a largely unshaped cut of suit. Though not literally like a sack, it features the same natural shoulders of the drape cut, but is devoid of any front darting. The front darting results in a suit that is hard to marry with the hourglass or V shaped cut preferred by most men. And despite being a classic, a quick check of my Mad Men DVDs reveals that the sack suit has even been abandoned by Don Draper for a drape cut come season two of the series.

Which Pattern Should You Pick?

For those looking to invest in a suit that isn't made in a solid color, the following are classic suit patterns perfect for the season and beyond, but don't forget that you can also work these same cloth patterns into components of men's suiting without making it and actual suit; that is, sport coats, blazers and trousers. In no particular order, there are the dominant suit cloths / patterns available this year that sit at the more conservative end of the spectrum.
                                            GLEN PLAID               DAMIER CHECK
                    

Make It Custom!

Make it custom. Because in this day and age, anything and everything in your closet can be customized. Options range from computerized made-to-measure ( those nifty Web sites that ask you to measure your own shoulders) to full-blown bespoke (rendered with you in mind from the first stitch). The happiest of mediums comes from BookATailor : Its made-to-measure program for suits and shirts. It is overseen by its team of tailors and craftsmen, who customize the fits and finishes to your liking. The possibilities are practically endless.

Beverly Hills New Showroom !

Our New Showroom in Beverly Hills is looking Fantastic ! All of our returning Cali Clients should head up to our showroom on 140 S. Beverly Drive and be the first to see all the hard work BookATailor put into this new project. Seems like we're not only custom making shirts and suits now, we are also custom making our showrooms.